White two-story colonial house with black shutters, a center doorway and a green lawn
Windows & siding · greater Portland and southern Maine

Portland Windows & Siding. The wall only comes off once.

Replacement windows and new siding across greater Portland and southern Maine, built for a coast where nor'easters drive rain sideways and winters run long — with each town's permit rule looked up before anything is ordered.

  • Free written estimate
  • Your city’s permit rule checked first
  • New house wrap and flashing behind it
Free estimateWindows, siding or both. Your city’s rules checked first.

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Free written estimateRot priced before you sign
Permit & code looked upFor every city we work in
Windows and siding togetherOne wall, opened once
Cumberland, York & Sagadahoc64 cities & counties
What we do

Windows, siding, and the part behind both.

Window and siding replacement across greater Portland and southern Maine: full-frame and insert windows in wood, vinyl, fiberglass and clad, and siding in vinyl, insulated vinyl, fiber cement, engineered wood and cedar shingle, for the old capes and clapboard village houses as much as the newer subdivisions.

White clapboard house with black shutters and wreaths in the double-hung windows

Replacement windows

Full-frame and insert windows in wood, vinyl, fiberglass and clad, built to the U-factor and SHGC your city actually requires.

  • Full-frame where the opening needs a sill pan
  • Egress checked before the order goes in
  • Tempered glass ordered where the code names it
Learn more
Worker on a lift painting new shingle and lap siding on a house gable

Siding replacement

Vinyl, insulated vinyl, fiber cement, engineered wood and steel, over a new water-resistive barrier lapped in the right order.

  • Kickout flashing at every roof-to-wall intersection
  • Window heads and jambs re-flashed
  • Asbestos-cement tested before anything is disturbed
Learn more
Single-story house with new tan lap siding and white trim beside deep snow

Vinyl & insulated vinyl

Cheapest to buy and to install, never needs painting, and one of the better claddings for keeping a wall dry. Insulated vinyl is flatter, quieter and more dent-resistant.

  • Nailed with room to move, so it does not buckle
  • Insulated vinyl: a foam backer of at least R-2.0
How vinyl compares
New two-story house with fiber cement lap siding and white trim nearly finished

Fiber cement & engineered wood

Fiber cement is dimensionally stable, does not feed insects and is non-combustible. Engineered wood is lighter and easier to cut, with a warmer look.

  • Clearances kept: two inches to a roof, six to grade
  • Every field cut sealed
How fiber cement compares
Long icicles hanging from the eaves and soffit at the corner of a house

Hail & storm damage

Here the damage usually comes from wind, ice and fallen limbs rather than hail. We will tell you what we see, including when we do not think there is a claim.

  • The windward walls checked first
  • Torn laps, loose corners and cracked trim looked for
  • The make, profile and color of your siding found
Hail and your siding
Blue clapboard house with a front gable, a covered porch and a green lawn

Older & historic homes

On a house built before 1978 the federal lead rule is on the job, and in a local historic district the ordinance can decide what a window is made of. We check what both require before anything is ordered.

  • Build year established on the visit
  • Historic designation type confirmed
  • Repair and a storm window considered seriously
Historic district rules
Gothic-style house with carved bargeboard trim, a pointed window and diamond-pane sashes
Two trades, one wall

Windows and siding are the same job from the outside in

Water gets into a wall at the openings. The flashing that stops it sits behind the cladding, which means the only time anyone can inspect it, correct it or replace it is while the siding is off. That is why we do both, and why we will tell you when doing both at once is cheaper than doing either one twice.

  • The water-resistive barrier replaced, not reused
  • Kickout flashing at every roof-to-wall intersection
  • Window heads and jambs re-flashed while they are reachable
  • Sheathing opened and inspected, rot priced against the area found

Window replacement

Full-frame and insert, wood, vinyl, fiberglass and clad

  • The U-factor and SHGC your city actually requires, not a generic number — we publish it for every jurisdiction
  • Full-frame where the opening needs a sill pan and a proper flashing tie-in; insert where the existing frame is sound and square, and we will say which one you have
  • Egress checked before the order goes in, because a replacement double-hung that drops into the existing hole very often fails the net clear opening rule
  • Safety glazing checked at every location the code names, so tempered glass gets ordered as tempered rather than discovered on installation day
  • Failed glass units replaced as glass, when the frame is still good and replacing the whole window would be selling you something you do not need

Siding replacement

Vinyl, insulated vinyl, fiber cement, engineered wood and steel

  • The water-resistive barrier replaced, not reused, and lapped in the right order
  • Kickout flashing at every roof-to-wall intersection — a ten dollar part, the most-missed detail in the trade, and the reason walls rot invisibly for years
  • Window heads and jambs re-flashed while they are reachable
  • Sheathing opened and inspected, with rot priced as a change order against the actual area found rather than guessed at up front
  • Asbestos-cement testing before anything is disturbed on a house built before about 1980, and an honest conversation about covering versus removing
What is behind the siding

The part nobody sees, drawn out.

Siding is the visible decision. The barrier and the flashing behind it decide whether the wall is still sound in twenty years — and once the siding is back on, nobody can check them.

12345
  1. Replacement window — sized to the opening, with the U-factor your city actually requires.
  2. Siding — lap profile, with trim around every opening.
  3. House wrap and flashing tape — the water-resistive barrier, replaced not reused, lapped in the right order and taped around every opening.
  4. Sheathing — opened and inspected; soft areas priced against what is actually found.
  5. Framing — king and jack studs, header and sill around the window opening.
Worker on a lift painting new shingle and lap siding on a house gable
How a job runs

No surprises, because the surprises are predictable

Rot behind siding and a failed egress measurement are not unlucky. They are the two things that turn up on these jobs, so we look for both before you sign anything.

  1. 1

    We measure and we look

    Net clear opening on every bedroom and basement window against the egress rule. Safety glazing at every location the code names. The roof-to-wall intersections, for a kickout that is missing. The build year, which decides whether the lead rule is on the job.

  2. 2

    We look up your city

    Permit or no permit, which energy code edition applies, what U-factor that puts on the window, whether the city wants the contractor registered, and whether you are in a historic district that regulates what the window can be made of.

  3. 3

    You get a written scope

    Including what happens if we open the wall and find soft sheathing — priced per square foot against the area actually found, agreed before we start, rather than discovered as a number on the final invoice.

  4. 4

    We do the part nobody sees

    New barrier, correct lap order, flashing at every opening and every transition, kickouts installed. Photographed as we go, because once the siding is on you have no way to check and neither does the next owner.

  5. 5

    Final walk

    Every window operated. Every opening checked. On a pre-1978 house, the lead-safe compliance summary you are owed within thirty days.

Kitchen window with potted plants on the sill and a snowy yard outside
Victorian clapboard house with a mansard roof, bracketed eaves and a columned front porch
Red clapboard cape-style house with a center chimney, shrubs and a sunny lawn
Yellow clapboard house with black shutters behind a white picket fence
One state code, many town permit rules

Maine sets the window rule. Each town sets its own permit rule.

Every town here holds a replacement window to the same energy code, the 2021 edition Maine adopted statewide, so there is one legal window figure across the whole area. What changes from town to town is whether a re-side or a window swap needs a permit at all, and towns of 4,000 people or fewer need not enforce the code. ENERGY STAR's figure for Maine asks for far more than the code does.

Siding permit rule in writing
44 of 64
Cities and counties where we have the published rule
Window U-factor rules
1
Across the places we cover
Built before 1980
52.8%
Of homes in this metro: what puts the federal lead rule on the job
ENERGY STAR zone
Northern
Every county here: U-0.22 or lower, SHGC 0.17 or higher
One example of eachAdopted energy codeWindow has to meet
Portland2021 IECC (statewide)U-0.30

Every jurisdiction we work in is listed, with its own page and its own sources. See the whole table →

Questions people actually ask

Do I need a permit to replace my siding in southern Maine?

It depends on the town, and the published answers really do run both ways. Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Kennebunkport and Brunswick name a re-side as work that needs no building permit when nothing structural changes; Saco names siding on its permit list, and Falmouth, Scarborough and Wells require a permit for any alteration or repair; plenty of towns publish nothing either way. We read the rules of all 64 towns — here they are, town by town.

What does a replacement window legally have to meet in Maine?

One figure statewide: a U-factor of 0.30 or lower, with no limit on solar heat gain, under the 2021 energy code the state adopted in April 2025, the same in every town we cover. ENERGY STAR's Northern zone, which covers all three counties, asks for U-0.22 or lower. How the code reaches a replacement window.

Will new windows pay for themselves in a Maine winter?

Not on the energy savings alone. ENERGY STAR's modeling for the Northern zone puts the saving at about $568 a year for a whole house of single-pane glass and about $282 a year for a whole house of older double-pane. Against the price of a whole-house job that is a long payback. New windows earn their keep when the old ones have failed, when rooms are drafty or the glass runs with condensation, or when the house needs a new look. The arithmetic, and the cheaper option.

My house is old. Does that change anything?

Yes. About 52.8% of the homes in the Portland metro were built before 1980, and on a house built before 1978 the federal lead-safe rule covers both trades: every window replacement, whatever its size, and any re-side that disturbs painted clapboards or trim. The firm must be EPA-certified, a certified renovator directs the work, and you get EPA's pamphlet before anything starts. What that means on the job.

Can I cancel if I sign at the kitchen table?

If the sale started with a visit or call you did not ask for, Maine gives you three full business days to cancel by mailing a written notice, and work that gets fixed to the house cannot start until that time has passed. Any home job over $3,000 also needs a written contract with no more than one-third down. What Maine requires of a contractor.

Blue clapboard house with a front gable, a covered porch and a green lawn
Free estimate

Ready when you are

Tell us the address and roughly what you are looking at. We will tell you what your city requires before we tell you what it costs.

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